The Atlantic slave trade carried West African foodways to the Americas, where they fused with what was available. Hoppin' John in the American South and pelau in Trinidad both share a family resemblance with jollof.
Modern diaspora jollof — London, Houston, Toronto, Atlanta, Brooklyn — has its own dialect: easier access to certain ingredients (tomato paste, smoked paprika), harder access to others (fresh scotch bonnet, palm oil), and the constant negotiation between memory and substitution.
Today, the strongest pots of jollof outside the home are increasingly being cooked outside West Africa — by second- and third-generation chefs who carry both kitchens at once.
